Turn the heat up to high, and boil the water away while loosening cooking residues from the bottom and sides with a wooden spoon. Tip the pan, spooning off all but a little of the fat. When done, transfer the chicken to a warm serving platter, using a slotted spoon or spatula.
If while the chicken is cooking, you find the liquid in the pan has become insufficient, replenish it with 1 or 2 tablespoons water as needed. Cook until the bird’s thigh feels very tender when prodded with a fork, and the meat comes easily off the bone, calculating between 20 and 25 minutes per pound. Let the wine simmer briskly for about 30 seconds, then adjust heat to cook at a slow simmer, and put a lid on the pan, setting it slightly ajar. Cook the garlic until it becomes colored a pale gold, and add salt, pepper, and the wine. Brown the chicken well on both sides, then add the garlic and rosemary.Put the butter and oil in a sauté pan, turn on the heat to medium high, and when the butter foam begins to subside, put in the chicken quarters, skin side down.“Decades later, in her cooking classes, when she was teaching cuts of meat,” writes her husband Victor Hazan in a foreword to the new, 30th-anniversary edition of Essentials of Classic Italian Cooking, “her students were the beneficiaries of her hard-won mastery.” Reissued with a sunny, jacket-less cover, it should be a staple of every kitchen.
That drive toward anatomical precision would serve her later in life. Of course she did not murder a man, she told the court when she made her appearance she had merely procured it from a friendly gravedigger who was happy to oblige her curiosity. The censors intercepted and demanded to know where she had gotten it. Hazan-who would go on to become, according to some, “the godmother of Italian cooking,” revolutionizing the way Americans thought about Italian cuisine-had obtained a skull, and she had written about it in a letter to her boyfriend who happened to be in the army. At the end of World War II, when Marcella Hazan was teaching anatomy in grade school in Italy, she was summoned to court and accused of murdering a German.
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